Tiles & Sanitaryware FAQs

Bandhan Ceramic operates 13 Premium display stores across Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. In Telangana: Bahadurguda (between L B Nagar and Sagar X Road), Uppal–Medipally, Madhapur, Secunderabad Minister Road and Karimnagar. In Andhra Pradesh: Vijayawada, Tirupathi, Ongole, Anantapuramu, Bhimavaram, two showrooms in Visakhapatnam and one in Vizianagaram. Full addresses, maps and directions are on our showrooms page.

Yes, we deliver across Telangana and Andhra Pradesh from whichever Premium display store is nearest to your site. Delivery timelines and charges depend on distance and order size — message us on WhatsApp with your pin code and requirement and we will confirm both before you commit.

Bandhan Ceramic Private Limited was incorporated in September 2016 and has grown from a single outlet to a 13-Premium display store retail network across two states, carrying a catalogue of more than 5,000 products spanning tiles, sanitaryware, faucets and allied building materials.

Yes — and we recommend it. Photographs cannot convey the gloss level, the surface texture or how a tile reads under your own lighting. Every Bandhan Premium display store displays the ranges in full-size laid panels so you can walk on the floor tiles and feel the finish. You can also preview any tile in your own room using our AR visualiser before you visit.

Six ranges under one roof: tiles (glazed vitrified, double-charged, full-body and ceramic wall tiles from 300×450 to 600×1200 mm), sanitaryware (water closets, wash basins, cisterns and shower systems), faucets and CP fittings, kitchen sinks in quartz composite and SS 304 stainless steel, C1 and C2 tile adhesives, and allied products (grouts, trims, spacers and waterproofing).

Vitrified tiles are fired with silica and clay at a higher temperature, which fuses the body into a glass-like mass and drops water absorption below 0.5%. Ceramic tiles absorb 10–20% water. That single difference means vitrified tiles can go on floors, in bathrooms and outdoors, while ceramic tiles should be used on dry interior walls only. Vitrified tiles are also harder, denser and far more resistant to staining.

For most Indian living rooms, 600×600 mm is the practical default and 600×1200 mm is the premium choice. Larger formats mean fewer grout lines, which makes the floor read as one continuous surface and the room feel bigger. If your living room is under about 120 sq ft, stay at 600×600 mm — very large tiles in a small room produce heavy cutting waste at the edges.

Divide the floor area by the area of one tile, then add 10% for cutting and breakage. A 600×600 mm tile covers about 3.87 sq ft, so 100 sq ft needs roughly 26 tiles, or 29 with wastage. Tiles are sold by the box: a 600×600 mm box usually holds 4 tiles (about 15.5 sq ft), so you would order 8 boxes. Our tile calculator does this for any size in a few seconds.

Use anti-skid vitrified tiles with a matt finish and an R10 slip rating or better. Bathroom floors combine water, soap film and bare feet, so slip resistance matters more than looks. Keep the tile size at 300×300 mm or 600×600 mm so the floor can be laid with enough slope to the drain, and pair it with a 300×450 mm or 300×600 mm glazed ceramic wall tile.

Parking tiles are a distinct product: thicker, heavily textured for grip, and engineered to take vehicle point loads without cracking. Use a full-body or heavy-duty vitrified parking tile of 300×300 mm or 400×400 mm, laid on a properly compacted and levelled base. Standard floor tiles will crack under a car within a season.

Both are glazed vitrified tiles. GVT (glazed vitrified tile) carries a printed design under a protective glaze. PGVT (polished glazed vitrified tile) is the same construction with the glaze polished after firing, which produces a deeper gloss and a smoother surface. PGVT looks richer and reflects more light; GVT in a matt finish is easier to maintain and safer underfoot.

Ceramic wall tiles typically start around ₹30–45 per sq ft, glazed vitrified floor tiles run roughly ₹45–90 per sq ft, and double-charged or large-format 600×1200 mm tiles sit above that depending on design and finish. Bandhan Ceramic keeps pricing consistent, so the rate you are quoted is the same at all showrooms. Message us on WhatsApp with your area and we will send a written quote.

No. Wall tiles are thinner, softer and far more porous — they are not rated for foot traffic and will crack, stain and become dangerously slippery. Floor tiles can be used on walls, but not the other way round. If you want a matching look, choose a floor tile and its companion wall tile from the same series.

The trap is the outlet path that carries waste away and holds a water seal against odour. An S-trap exits downward through the floor and is standard in most Indian construction. A P-trap exits horizontally through the wall and is common in apartments and newer buildings. Your existing plumbing determines which you need — check before choosing a model, because the two are not interchangeable.

Rough-in is the distance from the finished wall to the centre of the waste outlet in the floor. Indian bathrooms are usually built at 225 mm or 300 mm. If you buy a WC with a different rough-in, it will either stand away from the wall with a visible gap or will not connect at all. Measure it once, write it down, and bring it to the showroom.

A wall-hung or half-pedestal basin, because nothing sits on the floor and the room reads as larger. If you need storage, a compact table-top basin on a narrow 400–450 mm deep counter works well. Avoid full-pedestal basins in tight spaces — the pedestal blocks floor cleaning and adds visual bulk without adding storage.

Vitreous china is a clay body fired at very high temperature and coated with a vitreous glaze, producing a surface that is essentially non-porous. That is what makes it stain-resistant, hygienic and easy to clean, and why it has been the standard material for basins and water closets for over a century. The quality of the glaze is what separates a good piece from a cheap one.

A dual-flush cistern offers a 3-litre half flush and a 6-litre full flush, against a single 10–12 litre flush on older cisterns. For a family of four, that typically works out to tens of thousands of litres saved a year. Every dual-flush unit we stock is designed for the water pressures found in Indian overhead-tank systems.

Yes. Our showrooms carry the water closet, wash basin, cistern, faucets, shower system, accessories and the matching floor and wall tiles under one roof, so the finishes are coordinated and you make one trip instead of five. Tell our consultants your bathroom dimensions and budget and they will build the full package for you.

A diverter is the control that redirects water between two outlets — typically from a bath spout up to the overhead shower. A wall mixer with a diverter combines hot/cold mixing and outlet switching in a single unit, which is why it is the most common bathroom fitting in Indian homes. A three-way diverter adds a third outlet, usually a hand shower.

Yes, in hard water. Matte black and gunmetal finishes show limescale and soap residue more readily than chrome, and need wiping dry after use to stay looking new. Chrome plating is the most forgiving finish and the easiest to live with in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh water conditions. Choose matte black for the look, with that maintenance in mind.

Overhead rain showers rely on flow rather than force, so they need adequate head — generally a tank at least 15 to 20 feet above the outlet — to spray properly. Below that, fit a pressure pump or choose a concentrated-spray shower head instead. Tell us your tank height and we will recommend a shower rated for it rather than one that will disappoint.

Brass is corrosion-resistant, holds thread accurately and accepts chrome plating cleanly, which is why premium faucets are forged from it. Zinc-alloy bodies cost less but corrode and pit from the inside in hard water, and the plating fails with them. A brass faucet is noticeably heavier in the hand — that weight is the simplest quality check you can perform in a showroom.

A standard Indian bathroom typically needs five pieces: a basin mixer or pillar cock, a wall mixer with diverter, an overhead shower with arm, a health faucet, and an angle valve or two. Add a bath filler if you have a tub. Bring your bathroom layout to any Bandhan showroom and our consultants will build the complete fitting list in one sitting.

Yes. Warranty terms vary by range and manufacturer, and typically cover the cartridge and the plating separately. Ask for the specific warranty card for the range you are buying and keep your invoice — both are needed for any claim. Our showroom teams handle warranty coordination for products purchased from us.

It depends on the size of the face. A 8-inch or 12-inch rain shower in brass is heavy enough to strain the shower arm and its wall fixing over time, so ABS is the sensible body for wide faces — it is chrome-plated to match the rest of the bathroom and it cannot corrode. Brass makes sense on smaller heads and on the parts that hold pressure and get handled daily, such as mixers and stop cocks.

A health faucet is the hand-held spray fitted beside a water closet, connected by a flexible hose to an angle valve. It is standard in Indian bathrooms and is normally mounted on the wall within easy reach from a seated position, on whichever side the user prefers. The parts that decide how long it lasts are the trigger mechanism and the hose — a braided hose outlasts a plain PVC one considerably.

Almost always a dry trap. Every waste point holds a small body of water that seals the room off from drain gas, and if a floor drain or basin trap goes unused for a few weeks that water evaporates and the seal breaks. Running the taps and pouring a mug of water down each floor drain refills it. If the smell persists with the traps full, the cause is usually a waste point with no trap at all rather than a dirty one.

They trap different waste points, so usually yes. The bottle trap sits under the wash basin and traps that outlet — it is exposed under a counter-top basin, which is why it is picked for its finish as well as its function. The floor drain traps the water running off the floor and the shower area. Neither substitutes for the other, and a bathroom missing a trap at either point will pass drain odour back into the room.

Alongside the water closet and on the wet wall of the shower are the two placements that matter, set so they can be reached from seated. Fixing is the part people get wrong: a grab bar must be bolted into masonry or a structural stud, not into tile and plaster with generic wall plugs. Plan the position before tiling so the fixing points land where you actually need them.

Some do and some run on batteries, and the choice has to be made before civil work rather than after. A mains-powered unit needs a supply point planned near the fitting, which means deciding it at the wiring stage. A battery unit avoids that, but its cells need replacing periodically and somebody has to own that upkeep — which is why mains is the usual answer for offices, hospitals and other high-traffic washrooms.

Both are sound choices; they fail in different directions rather than one being better. Choose quartz composite if noise bothers you, if the sink is visible from a living or dining area, or if you want a colour other than steel — it does not dent, does not show water spotting, and the pigment runs through the body. Choose stainless steel if the budget is tight, if the kitchen is rented or temporary, or if you want something you can swap out in an afternoon without disturbing the countertop. Steel is lighter and cannot chip; quartz is quieter and warmer to look at.

A quartz — or granite composite — sink is moulded from crushed natural quartz, typically around 80% by weight, bound in an acrylic or polyester resin. That makes it a solid, non-porous mass rather than a coated surface. Because the pigment is mixed through the whole body, a scratch or a chip does not reveal a different colour underneath the way it does on an enamelled or coated sink.

SS 304 is the food-grade 18/8 stainless — roughly 18% chromium and 8% nickel — and that nickel content is what gives it real corrosion resistance. SS 202 replaces most of the nickel with manganese, which makes it cheaper but far more prone to pitting and rust staining, usually appearing first around the drain and along the tap ledge in hard water. Ask which grade you are being quoted and get it stated on the invoice; the price difference is small next to the cost of replacing a rusted sink.

Gauge is thickness, and the number runs backwards — lower is thicker. 16 gauge (around 1.5 mm) is the premium specification: rigid, quiet and heavy in the hand. 18 gauge (around 1.2 mm) is the sensible standard for a domestic kitchen. At 20 or 22 gauge the bowl flexes when you lean on it and drums loudly when a vessel goes in, and no amount of dampening pads fully fixes that. Press down on the centre of the bowl in the showroom — if it gives, go thicker.

Yes, with both materials. Stainless steel is entirely unaffected by anything that comes off a domestic burner. Quartz composite sinks are rated for direct contact with hot cookware, typically to around 280°C, so a pan straight off the flame will not mark or warp the bowl. The one thing to avoid on quartz is severe thermal shock in reverse — do not pour ice water into a bowl that has just had boiling oil in it.

They resist both far better than steel or enamel, but they are not magic. In hard water — which is most of Telangana and coastal Andhra — light-coloured sinks can develop a limescale film if left wet. Wipe the bowl dry after use and clean weekly with a mild cream cleaner; for scale, a diluted vinegar soak lifts it. Avoid strong acids, drain-opening chemicals and steel scrubbers.

A handmade sink is fabricated from thick sheet and welded at the corners, which allows a tight internal radius — usually quoted as R10 — and near-vertical walls. The result is squarer, holds more, and is normally made in 16 gauge. A pressed or drawn sink is stamped from a single sheet, so it has softly rounded corners and is typically thinner. Handmade costs more and suits under-mount installation on a solid-surface counter; pressed is perfectly adequate for a top-mount fit.

Work from the base cabinet, not the counter. Allow about 50 mm of clearance on each side of the sink within the internal cabinet width — so a 24-inch base unit takes a sink of roughly 21 inches. Common Indian sizes run from 18×16 inches for a compact single bowl up to 37×18 inches and beyond for a bowl-and-drainboard. Bowl depth of 8 to 10 inches suits Indian utensils.

A single large bowl usually wins. Indian cooking generates big vessels — pressure cookers, kadais, idli stands — and a half bowl in a double-bowl sink is often too small to take them flat. Choose a double bowl only if you genuinely wash in two stages, or a bowl-and-drainboard layout if you have the counter length, which gives you draining space without shrinking the wash bowl.

Top-mount (drop-in) is simpler, cheaper to fit and works on any countertop material — the rim sits on the counter and covers the cut edge. Under-mount fixes below the counter for a seamless line you can sweep crumbs into, but it requires a solid-surface counter such as granite or engineered quartz with a properly polished cut-out. Decide before the countertop is fabricated, because the cut differs.

The number is the bond strength. A C1 adhesive achieves at least 0.5 N/mm² and is intended for interior ceramic tiles on walls and small floor formats. A C2 adhesive achieves at least 1.0 N/mm² — double the pull-off strength — and is the minimum for vitrified tiles, large formats, exteriors and wet areas. Using C1 where C2 is specified is the most common cause of tiles debonding a few years after they were laid.

They are additional performance characteristics under EN 12004. T means slip resistance — the tile stays put on a wall instead of sliding down while the bed sets. E means extended open time, which gives you longer to place tiles before the adhesive skins over. S1 means the cured adhesive is deformable, so it absorbs slight substrate movement; it is what you want over concrete slabs, on cladding, on terraces and under underfloor heating.

A 20 kg bag of C2 adhesive covers roughly 40–50 sq ft of floor at a 4 mm bed with a 10 mm notch trowel. Large-format tiles need a thicker bed and back-buttering, so budget nearer 35 sq ft per bag for 600×1200 mm. Wall tiles at a 6 mm notch go further, around 55–65 sq ft. Uneven substrates consume noticeably more than any of these figures — level the floor first and you will use less adhesive than you save on screed.

No. Vitrified tiles absorb under 0.5% water, so a sand-cement bed has nothing to key into and cannot form a chemical bond. The floor develops hollow patches and starts lifting within a few years, usually at the corners first. Use a C2-class polymer-modified adhesive, which bonds chemically rather than relying on the tile absorbing water from the mix.

Yes, provided the existing tiles are firmly bonded — tap across the floor and listen for hollow sounds, and replace anything that rings loose. Clean off grease and wax, then either mechanically roughen the glaze or apply a bonding primer, and fix with a C2 TE S1 adhesive. Tile-on-tile raises the floor by roughly 15–20 mm, so check door clearances and threshold levels before you start.

Leave 24 hours before grouting a normal interior floor, and do not walk on it during that time. Give it 24 to 48 hours in wet areas, on exteriors and for tile-on-tile work. Full strength develops over about seven days — keep heavy furniture, trolleys and site traffic off the floor until then. Grouting early traps moisture under the tile and is a common cause of efflorescence in the joints.

A hollow sound means voids under the tile — the adhesive did not achieve full contact. It happens when the bed skinned over before the tile was placed, when the trowel notch was too small for the tile size, when large tiles were not back-buttered, or when tiles were spot-fixed on five dabs instead of a combed bed. Hollow tiles crack under point loads and lift at the corners; the fix is to lift and re-lay, so it is worth insisting on full-bed fixing at the start.